At SIHH 2017, Parmigiani Fleurier released two beautiful new limited-edition versions of one of my favorite watches from the brand, the Ovale Pantographe. It is largely the Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe we are familiar with, but with some newly added exclusivity for those people who wanted a good reason to spend about 60% more on the watch. To see what is new, you must literally look beyond the surface, as these versions look strikingly similar to previous limited-edition Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe watches from 2013.
What is similar to those models is the “Guilloche” Barley Grain Dials with applied, versus printed, hour numerals. Although the 2013 limited editions had the hands and hour markers in blue, these 2017 Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe limited-edition models have the hands and applied hour markers in chic black. “Guilloche” is in quotes as the dial is not indeed produced from a rose engine but rather stamped, as Parmigiani readily explains. I do admit that if the dial were indeed authentic machine engraving it would be very appealing. I was recently able to test my own skills with a real guilloche machine doing this exact barleycorn pattern and know how difficult and time consuming it is. Doing a single dial could take hours and hours of work.
What’s truly new is the movement, which isn’t different, but rather done in solid 18k rose gold. So now both the Ovale case and the in-house made Parmigiani PF111 movement are in gold. I recently covered another Parmigiani watch with a gold movement, which was a steel-cased limited edition of 10 pieces Kalpa Hebdomadaire Anniversaire model. That model’s movement was decorated differently with more hand engraving, while the Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe with Barley Corn Dial and Gold Movement has more traditional Geneva stripes on the gold movement. With that said, the movements in each of the watches are structurally almost identical.
The PF111 movement is manually-wound and comprised of 267 parts. It operates at 21,600bph (3Hz) with a long power reserve of eight days (192 hours). The movement here uses a disc under a crescent-shaped power reserve indicator to to display the remaining power via color – it goes from black to white as the power reserve winds down. There is also an “open” date display over 6 o’clock that, in this instance, helps visually balance out the dial. The Parmigiani Fleurier logo is right above 12 o’clock, and arguably almost hidden a bit on the watch face.
In addition to the Ovale-style case shape, the Parmigiani Ovale Panotgraphe is so well-regarded because of the awesome system of telescopic hands which uses more than 30 parts in mostly titanium. In black, the hands look stately and legible. Their purpose by design is to grow and shrink in size so as to match the varying dimensions of the non-round case shape as they move around to indicate the time as we explain in more detail in our hands-on article here. In the modern sense, this is a Parmigiani creation, but the actual invention of this concept is credited to a pocket watch from 1780 that Michel Parmigiani himself restored. Like many talented modern-day watch makers, Mr. Parmigiani really taught himself watchmaking through the art and discipline of restoring antique horological creations.
The Parmigiani Ovale case is a special character in the watch world given its unique design, beautiful and comfortable wearing experience, and charming visual personality. The combination of distinctive Parmigiani signature teardrop-style lugs and oval shape make it a winner for being different in the category of dress watches were many things look more or less the same to me. Coming to this conclusion isn’t easy just by looking at it, but if you view our hands-on and review articles on the Parmigiani Ovale Pantograph, you can come to your own conclusion on how well the design might sit on your wrist.
The case for this set of Parmigiani Fleurier Watch Review Replica Ovale Pantographe 2017 limited-edition watches comes in either 18k white or 18k rose gold, each with the same dial and black Hermes alligator strap. Size is 37.3mm wide by 45mm tall and 12.5mm thick (water resistant to 30 meters). The 2017 Parmigiani Pantographe “Guilloche” Barley Grain Dial And Gold Movement watch is a limited edition of 50 pieces in each case material with a price of $85,000 each. parmigiani.ch
Like many Parmigiani watches, the Ovale XL Tourbillon comes fitted with an Hermès strap, this time in indigo blue alligator. I locate the relative width of the strap (thanks to the wide lugs) for a flattering appearance, and it also will help enhance the formal, yet masculine stance of the timepiece’s in general form. A 30 next tourbillon will spin faster (obviously) compared to the usual 60 second tourbillon, and thus its real objective is to offer an enhanced feeling of visual animation on the dial. It has little details like this which make Parmigiani timepieces allure to the sort of person prepared to invest $200,000 on a luxury watch. No, and again, it isn’t attempting to be. Cost for the Parmigiani Ovale XL Tourbillon reference PFH750-1000600-HA3141 watch is $195,000 USD.Today marks the launch of the Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Sort 390, a watch made to decide on the hottest Bugatti Chiron hypercar. In line with a lot of the pieces that came from Parmigiani’s today 13-year venture with carmaker Bugatti, the Sort 390 is another very unusually shaped piece stuffed edge to edge with a equally unique movement. Just like the Bugatti Chiron, the Parmigiani Type 390 also seems to have been beautifully and exceedingly over-engineered, so as to capture the attention of even the most tired and tired watch and car lover.While cars must comply with stricter emissions regulations and security conditions — well, some did eliminate deceiving their way round them, but that is for another site to discuss — watchmakers stay free to do whatever the heck they want, as long as they stay within the often loosely interpreted limitations of wearability, reliability, and functionality. Parmigiani Fleurier sounds really pleased with the Type 390’s supposedly effortless tackling of all these difficulties.